What do we mean by fashion? Can distinguish "Pret-a-porter" of "haute couture"? What are the features of the national fashion? Can our designers to compete with Western?
These issues will be discussed in Valentine's Day with Valentin Yudashkin. Will not stand aside and his new collection of military uniforms for the Russian army.
Our program takes part in:
fashion, People's Artist of Russia, member of the Russian Academy of Arts, Knight of Art and Literature of the French Republic Valentin Yudashkin.
Nick:
It so happened that was not the first year in St. Petersburg on this day his new collection shows Valentin Yudashkin. But tell me why this day?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Happened. We got to St. Petersburg for the first time that day, it was for us a new holiday, cute, cute. We do love the holidays, even strangers, and kinder than a holiday, so it's probably better. That is why we are here today. I'm glad to have the opportunity at least once a year to see the St. Petersburg audience, my many friends who live here and show their latest work.
Nick:
Let's understand the terminology.
Valentin Yudashkin:
Many years ago I arrived, we just show up for the first time in France, in Paris. And it was a new word, just like the word "vintage", which is now many do not understand. Haute Couture - a unique clothes, unique clothing from the author, the artist who created it. It's as if he painted portraits, painted a picture molded sculpture. That is, a unique authoring clothes that actually made one copy and 80% manually.
Nick:
If I remember correctly, you are a specialist in the history of fashion. And as far as I know, in the early twentieth century shops just started coming into fashion. Before this all came to the dressmaker in person and there were sewing. No one was willing to pay, and then shops started to appear. Now people are accustomed to the fact that all the clothes we are ready, and few can afford and have time to sew. So what is your ready-made clothes is different from the sea, ready-made clothing, which hangs over all stores, if they do something different? I do not mean specifically your ...
Valentin Yudashkin:
Of course, different. First, the dress. We began with haute couture, then there is a unique studios, workshops that develop unique clothes. That is, we seek only to create and adapt the best ideas are already in the factories. After that we start to work already with the big campaigns, with the production of textile workers, to adapt the idea to use a cost-effective to have at least a small stream, and people could see the clothes, not only in magazines and on the podium, but in shops and boutiques. There are different categories of prices, and would seem to have the same "name" for some reason the price is somewhere cheaper, more economical, different cities and countries in the production of clothing. We see that there is a nominal clothing in China and Turkey, to say nothing of France and Italy. That is, it is a great work of the company, which has its own policy, its face and its plans for the business.
Viewer Question:
All my life I worked as a cutter and sewing all my life for the population. I worked in Peterhof. But here's the model look Yudashkin, they are unacceptable and that sky-high, we must work harder for the population, then we drove this foreign market.
Nick:
What do you mean for ordinary people?
Viewer Question:
For seniors, complete. Very few models, even in the magazine Burda, one - two models can be found, and all.
Valentin Yudashkin:
Well, it's a great question, but few are familiar with our mass products. Therefore, television, and reporters want, of course, to see the most beautiful and unusual image. A ready-made clothes few people are interested because it is sold in stores, so we do not just ordinary clothes, but we also produce about 50 - 70 000 jeans. And we count on young people as a great Russia and in neighboring countries ...
Nick:
A ready-made clothes, dresses you up to what size?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Up to 54 size.
Nick:
And by age? How a grown man can afford anything? At what age you are targeting?
Valentin Yudashkin:
To 50, say so. But, after all, a woman in the last 15 - 20 years was much younger. We see it. Age - a state of mind. A woman has changed, it became more athletic, has become more self love, treat yourself differently. We're not just talking about those drugs that have appeared on the market and become available. Just a woman became a trail, going to sports clubs, to move away from the stove and think about the figure. And we have other words, we now think of organic kitchen, do not want to have a lot of fat, we want to look normal. We even celebrate another holiday home, there is none like it was before. Plus, we had eaten. We have become more choosy. And women, of course, began to change its size. And over the past 10 years has changed even dimensional grid. So 10 years, we have removed precisely. This helps, of course, clothing. What to say about women, if men have changed. We could not previously see men in pink tie, pink shirt, purple sweater. Previously it was generally unclear. In bright red pants ... Now it's all made possible, we can see on the streets, it's not the young boys are men who want to be pulled up, they spend more time in the fitness club, hairdressers and demanding of himself, at times, more than women.
Viewer Question:
I am concerned about the issue of wedding dresses, what trends are evident in terms of wedding dresses?
Viewer Question:
Today, many stores represent the products of leading brands, but even in spite of their higher price, we often can only get low quality fake. Advise, how can we distinguish them from the original?
Nick:
Is there a fashion for wedding dresses?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Of course, there's fashion. So many new technologies, fabrics, but all the same wedding dress for girls remains a dream. There are two things in life, this prom and wedding gown. I think, of course, is your imagination is boundless. Your wedding, your girlfriend, your invitations, as laid your desk, we now have to have the wedding service, there are the organizers of weddings, but, more importantly, my personal advice, stay in a wedding dress is very young and that you will remember it forever. I do not like wedding dresses, which give excess age, huge, big hair, a fundamental attitude. Adolescence is probably the most important thing in this. Who published several times married, a council, probably a few others.
Nick:
And how do you feel about veil?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Veil, tiaras, crowns, different ornaments in her hair and color, not just white, I have been instances, and light blue dress, someone even came out in black and the groom was in white. I think that a wedding - this whole show, which you, in the first place, arrange for yourself, for life, would like to see these pictures please you, you open them and remembered how it was you perfectly.
Nick:
There are people who want a wedding dress and then to ordinary life or the dress, which must be put in the trunk, and granddaughters then show ...
Valentin Yudashkin:
I must have a second part to show. but the dress should be, if possible, new, yours, because happiness is not for hire.
Nick:
You, as a professional on what to watch on line?
Valentin Yudashkin: Lots of questions, I spoke with our law firm, now found a fake, which is in China, New York, it's nice for as long as things are at least consistent quality. If you do not hurt the consumer and does not affect the image of the campaign in the name of a campaign, even on something we can close my eyes, but when it's bad quality, things do not correspond to any idea, any notions of fashion, horrible fabric, Moldy - is awful, because every time we have to justify to the consumers, to those people who we believed and gave money for this thing.
Nick:
It is no secret that many fashion houses, they can be sewn in China, but may be qualitative. That is, that thing is sewn in China, does not mean that it is fake.
Valentin Yudashkin:
First of all, it's authenticity and authorship, and the artist, now a very popular thing I've seen in many countries, many Western campaigns poshivayut us, famous campaigns that are making the first line, are unique. The main thing is the fight against counterfeiting, more often than we do, if the movies, in music, these issues are raised, we have always been distinguished by the fact that we sewed fake Levis, Wrangler and many are worn, they were our southern republic, southern Russia. Now I'm busy working with the counterfeit.
Nick:
We heard that we even have a counterfeit bread.
Viewer Question:
Tell me, when will we finally will be our fashion magazines? We sew, too many women have sewn with pleasure sew. we want magazines with patterns! Why log without drawing! It is not necessary. We look at these beautiful, lovely ladies, it's nice, but we can not buy, but I would like to sew.
Valentin Yudashkin:
In France there is a whole system, turn to fashion houses, they are after their collections, not in the same season, but next season they sell patterns, you can buy a packet of patterns, they look at fashion houses and there are women of different shapes, they adapt themselves to and many want to sew themselves and be individual, so this issue is. I can please you, there is such a big campaign, both Russian and international. who in their package begin to have not only western branding glossy magazines and, of course, open up and own. I think. Now that a lot of fashion publications Russian begin to adapt, they give us more understandable, more interesting ... But as long as they do not survive, because as long as everyone lives in the advertising budgets of western campaigns. There are large holdings, who can afford to open their own branding Russian glossy magazines, and I think this is the future. We both want everything fast. I need your love, if you can help, as they will know more, then we have a very strong pack of artists.
Viewer Question:
To date, we have many politicians look haute couture, for example, German Gref and his famous ties. but, unfortunately, in my opinion, not everyone can boast of quite a glamorous look. how would you rate the overall appearance of our politicians?
Nick:
Do you like the boring blue tie Mr. Medvedev?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Firstly, it is not boring, it is stylish, nice silk tie. It's not even that. I believe that as a politician, to lead, to a journalist, it is important to hear it, but were not considered. The fact that he is in good clothes, and that is sending information, which wants to give us a politician, I think we should hear it. if he will dress up very nice, bright, glamorous, trendy, then the first 5 minutes, we will consider, watches, cufflinks ... It's nice that we like, dressed like our politicians, they are dressed decently, modestly.
Nick:
The most interesting thing that we do not like it when they are badly dressed, badly dressed as a woman ...
Valentin Yudashkin:
I think that now men look worthy of its age, its Current position and I think that men are somehow not welcome in costume or even to tie. He should be dressed modestly ...
Nick:
But in general remained a saying that meet on clothes?
Valentin Yudashkin:
I think yes. Because for me, especially since I found while total deficit and the problems when unique teachers, professors, doctors with basic education remains one of the feature, they could not afford to buy a new suit or a tie to change, and to condemn had on the costume - it's awful. Therefore, I think, perhaps, was precisely that, because for me it is very important that in the eyes, a tongue that comes from within and how the person is emotional and interesting, because everything else later.
Viewer Question:
A few days ago there was information that in Chechnya, Ramzan Kadyrov's decision to enter almost mandatory headscarves for all women. how do you think, as a person who is engaged in a fashion professional, you're doing a fashion in our country, is it reasonable now to introduce some policies of the government order, or even in terms of fashion or she must still live by their own laws to anyone not obeying the .
Viewer Question:
You know, as a rather intimate fashion. Will you have some kind of public, large-format brands, which will be available to a wide range of consumers? If yes, what is planned for brands this spring and summer?
Valentin Yudashkin:
I like a man traveling the world, I have been to many countries and Muslim, and Jewish, and very interesting Buddhist, everywhere there is a national costume. People are proud, they are proud and religion, roots, traditions, national. You come to Dubai, I have many clients there and sell a lot of European stuff in there. When, for example, to me a fitting comes girl dressed entirely in black, but inside she wore jeans, a great shirt. it in the car, she arrives in Paris, undressing and in line with European standards of living. Let's be tolerant, very calm. I think that fashion - it's like music, like a movie, if it is of interest but it will be inside every girl, women, and this will be their thing. What is happening inside, I think that if there is such traditions, we must wear a headscarf. As for brands, I can say one thing for two years we do a line Yudashkin Jeans. This economical line that loves youth, it is very volume, formatted, where you can buy street clothes, jackets, jeans, shirts. We are open throughout the country. There is a new line Yudashkin Jeans Collection. It is slightly more expensive. I love jeans. It is very convenient and comfortable clothes.
Nick:
I noticed that people who still remember the Soviet Union, we podsazheny to this love of the West. We want something imported. I know young people today who wear patriotic clothing and no this is nothing.
Valentin Yudashkin:
Somehow Muscovites or Petersburgers differ from European or American? nothing, because all the young people dressed as dressed in New York and Milan, they have one music, one slang. If it's trendy, fashionable, comfortable and accessible - they do not care where it is sewn.
Viewer Question:
What is the fashion now is for men from 20 to 30 years? At the moment, clothes that you are on your production or someone else?
Valentin Yudashkin:
I'll start with the last question. Of course, everything I wear from hours to T-shirts, sweaters, jeans - it's all their own production. Regarding the second question, as it should be dressed man, this is h where I started, that men now have more actin in vogue. This is what so many men now began to work in offices, so the office style, management style - is, of course, suit, still in vogue, as we have more to work with computers and spend more time in office, then certainly , the tie goes to the more formal clothes. Change the style of Friday, because many work on Friday and Saturday, it's more casual, that is already allowed to come in a sweater, jeans, t-shirt, to be more comfortable. Plus, the men began to wear more bright colors, beige, white, in this season a lot of olive oil, a lemon shades, brighter, more leisure. And cruise shades - dark navy blue. Shades of dark nights, instead of black, we offer a dark blue.
Nick:
Tell me, was there something there for you when you started to do a military uniform, something special for you? This is also a special story costume ... Was there something that you never thought of?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Probably, many thanks to the Department of Defense, primarily because for us it was open to all museums, have access to unique instances of books and materials. We saw the stage of the great Russian army. We took as a basis, something of Suvorov, something from the Soviet era, was the color of his tunic were. Unique things, a victory parade when he came Zhukov, these things are very important. Modern young soldier should feel this form, it must look good ...
Nick:
Well, breeches with boots this beautiful it was!
Valentin Yudashkin: breeches with boots have only a guard of honor.
Viewer Question:
Why is the shape we're going to sew on the basis of domestic and tissues, and plants, and for fashion shows, we take imported fabrics and accessories?
Viewer Question:
How can I look up with fashion trends woman with magnificent forms?
Viewer Question:
We now have in Russia baby boom, the nonet of children's fashion magazines with the same pattern, so that the children something to sew.
Nick:
There are children's fashion shops, are so expensive that just awful! About the domestic, today you show, the collection called Elizabeth. I understand that this will be something very beautiful, but you import?
Valentin Yudashkin:
We have many fabrics to make their own designs around the world, but otshivaetsya and made it only at home. We can not afford to make a unique collection somewhere, this is our know-how and our technology, we are doing at home. Women's range, as well as women are very volatile, they want today, flowers, vasilechka tomorrow, tomorrow, not pink, and blue ... I hope that we still put our best plants, because there is experience of our many textile campaigns from Ivanovo to Vologda who know and are able to work with textiles, silk plants too. If we're talking about fashion, then we are ready economically. If we are instructed to change clothes army, we had a lot of problems of economic, we now can think about the appearance. We are happy people, because 10 years ago we could not even dream about it, we missed it, it was not for money. This is a very significant step on the form, people will want to sew at home, put the factory and open.
Nick:
About the magnificent forms again we say?
Valentin Yudashkin:
The main thing is not to think about it. It all depends on the internal state. I have many friends pretty, plump, they are charming and beautiful, but they are confident. Therefore, we can wear what to wear and can thin ...
Nick:
But not to be a laughing stock ...
Valentin Yudashkin:
Feel should be in everything and not go after fashion magazines to stay stylish and understand where to wear these things.
Viewer Question:
As for the women of magnificent forms, I treat them. For many years, women sewed for their families, for themselves. all well-known fashion designers create things with their hands, is very prestigious and buy such a thing is considered prestigious in the society. why lately, and how to change this prevailing view that if a woman is to create something with their hands, sew for myself, is considered the poverty line. How to change this view?
Viewer Question:
I am a war veteran, the Leningrad front, the legendary road of life, disability. Help me, please book somewhere in a velvet dress for the holidays for decorations for medals. I was so, but it was old. And I would like black velvet, I have 54 size, please help me.
Valentin Yudashkin:
Tell specifically for your program, once I am a guest and we are with the company BTC groups - so here we are for you to make the Victory Day costume. Please leave your phone, we'll help you get a suit by May 9, show then tell us and come for a visit. Leave your contact information, all will be at its best.
Nick:
Thank you. I did not know that such requests will be on the air. And now for the first question.
Valentin Yudashkin:
Fantastic, you know how to sew. You must be the envy of many, there is nothing to be ashamed of this. Now is not the time when we started the fashion industry, when there was no piece of fabric or material. no buttons. Now for your creativity - lots of opportunities. Buy fabric, fantasy, sew, you are unique and can not find any similar thing, and all friends will envy you.
Nick:
This year is special for you, anniversary?
Valentin Yudashkin:
20 years old house. In 1988 it all started the year.
Nick:
That is, when the Soviet government. Tell me how you personally changed the time for fashion? That's 20 years ago, opening the house, what were you thinking?
Valentin Yudashkin:
First of all, we all lived the same life ... starting a new journalism, new life, their own businesses, their own campaigns, the successes few people thought. Think of how to survive. I want to thank the public, because then we do not know what a business. We did not realize that this can make money. So all this with love, because we were then on the business people, and now everything is as it is not delivered at this level. And thank you for those years, because only love and your faith is given the opportunity to create a collection.
Nick:
For 20 years you have a job is that you should not surprise us, what is it?
Valentin Yudashkin:
Hard. And surprisingly, that over the years has changed the economy. When I received the title of National Artist, which I handed Vladimir Vladimirovich, I realized that we had in 1988 could not even think that we have both state and society will turn to fashion, and we feel ourselves worthy of the international arena.
